Blouse



March 2, 1943. M SHQLDER ErAL 2,312,777

BLOUSE Filed Oct. 6, 1941 Patente-d Mar. 2, 1943 2,312,777 vLoUsE Morris Sholder and Arthur M. Cooper, Chicago, Ill., assignors to Form Fashion, Inc., Chicago, Ill., a corporation of Illinois Application October 6, 1941, Serial No. 413,752

' 2 claims. uol. 2-125) The present invention relates to blouses andis particularly concerned with the provision of a blouse which will not ride upon the -wearers shoulders and which will stay tucked in -atV the waist when the arm is raised or swung forwardly or backwardly.

One of the problems met with in blouses to a greater extent than in longer garments is that blouses, being shorter and of less weight, do not have as great a tendency to stay in place, particularly when the arm is raised. Additionally, even though a dress may ride up somewhat when the arm is raised, it will return to its original position when the arm is lowered, while a blouse which rides up will pull out at least partially from where it is tucked in beneath the top of the skirt, shorts, or slacks with which it is worn. Then when the arm is lowered, the blouse will not return to its original position, and when the arm is successively raised, the blouse is likely to be pulled farther and farther from beneath the waistband of the anchoring garment, until finally the wearer must tuck it back into place beneath the waistband.

It is one of the objects of the present invention to provide an improved blouse which will not pull out from beneath the waistband of the anchoring garment.

An additional object of the present invention is to provide a novel blouse construction.

Still another object of the present invention is to provide a blouse and its attached sleeve with a novel gusset which prevents raising of the sleeve from raising the side of the blouse.

Other objects and advantages will become apparent from the following description of a preferred embodiment of my invention, this embodiment being disclosed in the accompanying drawing in which similar characters of reference refer to similar parts throughout the several views.

In the drawing:

Fig. 1 is a front perspective view of a blouse embodying the present invention shown with the sleeves hanging downwardly;

Fig. 2 is a perspective view similar to Fig. l showing the position assumed by the parts when one of the sleeves is raised; and

Fig. 3 is a view of the side of the blouse, the gusset and the underside of the arm with the parts spread out llat to show the manner in which the several parts are arranged. The shade lines in this figure are parallel to the Woof threads of the fabric.

The blouse shown in the figures is comprised of a pair of front panels Ill joined at their sides to a back panel I2, While these three panelsgare connected. at4 the top by a shoulder-yoke I4'. lThe front-.panels I l] andthe back 4'panel I 2,.are lall straight cut in the conventional manner. The

1 armholes' provided in this. garment are considerably deeper than is usual, as may be seen in Fig. 2. The sleeve proper, indicated by the numeral I6, is straight cut in the samev manner as the front and back panels and as seen in Fig. 3, it is stitched directly to the side panel, the back panel, and the yoke around approximately half of the armhole opening. The fabric around the lower portion of the armhole is not attached directly to the sleeve, since the sleeve at this portion is cut back to the underarm seam 2l) to provide a generally rhomboidal opening between the sleeve and the front and back panels with the shorter diagonal of this rhomboidal opening extending from the end of the seam I8 at the side of the blouse Which joins together the front and rear panels to the seam underneath the arm. In the blouse shown, this shorter diagonal is approximately four inches long.

Because the sleeve is attached to the blouse front and back panels only from the center line of the arm upwardly, it will be appreciated that raising and loweringthe arm willnot pull upwardly upon the side of the blouse to any appreciable degree. In order to fill the opening at the lower portion of the armhole without interfering with this free action, we provide a gusset 22 made 11p of a front triangle 24 and a rear triangle 26. These two triangles are connected by a center seam 28 which joins the seam 20 in the sleeve at one end and the seam I8 in the side'of the blouse at the other end. Other seams at the other edges of the triangle 24 connect this triangle to the blouse front panel I0 and with the sleeve IB. Similar seams connect the edges of the triangle 26 with the blouse rear panel I2 and with the sleeve I6.

Whereas the sleeves I 6 and the front and back panels Il] and I2 respectively are straight cut, the triangles 24 and 26are bias cut and although the triangles 2-4 and 26 are both bias 4 cut, the

Warp and Woof directions in these two triangles are at an acute angle to each other. That is, one bias of the triangle 22 runs approximately from the lower left-hand corner, as shown in Fig. 3, across the piece t approximately the midpoint of the opposite side of the triangle, while the similar bias of the triangle 24 runs from the lower right-hand corner, as shown in Fig. 3, across the piece to approximately the mid-point of the opposite side of this triangle.

With a blouse as thus constructed, we have found that the action of the sleeve is quite free, both when the arm is raised and lowered and also when swung to and fro. The sleeve also hangs well without bunching beneath the armpit. It will also be appreciated that since the gusset is made up of two triangular pieces stitched together in such a manner that the warp lines are at an acute angle any twisting that accompanies stretching of either of these triangular pieces will be opposed by similar but oppositely acting twisting in the other piece, thus preventing any tendency of the sleeve to twist as the arm is raised and lowered. Y

Having described our invention, what We claim as new and useful and desire to secure by Letters Patent of the United States is:

1. A garment having body covering and sleeve elements comprising, straight cut back and. front panels stitched together at the sides of the garment to provide a large armhole` a sleeve stitched. around said armhole throughout a portion comprising approximately' half of the circumference of the upper end of the sleeve so. as to provide a generally rhomboidal opening in the armpit region with the shorter diagonal of said rhomboidal opening extending from the stitch line joining the front and back panels of the blouse to 4the stitch line at the lower side of the sleeve, and a generally rhomboidal gusset stitched in place to ll said opening, said rhomboidal gusset comprising a pair of bias cut triangles stitched together along bias cut edges and positioned in said opening with their common sitch line in approximate alignment with the stitch line joining theI front and back panels and a stitch line at the lower side of the sleeve.

2. A garment having body covering and sleeve elements comprising, panels stitched together at the sides of the garment to provide a body covering portion having a large armhole therein, a sleeve stitched to the fabric surrounding the upper portion of the armhole to provide a generally rhomboidal opening in the armpit region, a generally rhomboidal gusset stitched in place to ll said opening, said rhomboidal gusset comprising a pair of bias cut triangles stitched together alongv bias cut edges along a line extending from a point beneath the sleeve to a point at the bottom of the armhole.

MORRIS SHOLDER.

ARTHUR M. COOPER. 

